Saturday, August 18, 2007

De Vuelta

As of yesterday, I am officially back on U.S. soil, and I have mixed feelings about it. Like I planned I have taken extra long, extra hot showers and have stood in the sun and soaked up the heat. I forbid anyone around me to complain about the weather; there are air conditioned houses and cars that can alleviate any suffering one might feel from a little humidity.

It's also nice to see friends again and be able to talk to family on the phone without having to worry about minutes or how much it's going to cost. I've missed all of you, and it's been nice to be able to talk to so many of you while I was on the other side of the world. Another thank you to those who sent me packages while I was there as well.

What I miss about Chile is the cariño with which everyone treats each other. We're so distant as North Americans. I love the kiss you give someone when you say hello or goodbye. I love that you have to have a conversation with someone before you can ask them a favor. I love how when people ask how you are, you really tell them. While I may put off some people, I hope to keep some of those customs with me here in the States.

I'm working on some kind of inter-school project now between Killeen High School and Liceo Darío Salas. I'd like to start a penpal exchange, or something along those lines, where my students here in the U.S. can practice their Spanish and the students in Chile can practice their English, and hopefully make some friends and broaden their horizons in the process. I'll keep ya'll posted (notice the ya'll...I'm definitely back in Texas).

Again, thanks to everyone for keeping up with me. This has been a fantastic experience.

Linz

Monday, August 13, 2007

La Despedida

Today the school said goodbye to me. I'm flying home on Thursday, but tomorrow will be my last day of classes. The teachers held a breakfast in the teachers' lounge durning the first morning recess. A couple people said a few words, and then everyone sat around singing songs about Chile. Then they asked me to speak and I cried. I couldn't help it--it's been a really amazing experience being in Chile, getting to know the country and teaching English. But more than that, they've made me feel invited and welcome, and have shared their language and culture with me. They have given me much more than I could ever give them.

At 11:00 the director put together a school-wide assembly in my honor. They raised the flag (which they do every Monday--I don't think I had anything to do with that part), some courses recited poetry by Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral, and the school's Grupo Folklorico danced two dances: the first was a Pre-Columbian dance, then the Cueca. The director gave a speech, I said a few words, and everything ended with a song played and sung by the Grupo Folklórico again. I was presented with three gifts and a rose: a small jewelry box with a necklace inside with a lapizlázuli charm, a box full of chocolates, and a book of poetry by Neruda. When they gave me the wrapped gifts all the students started to chant: "¡Que abra! ¡Que abra!"--they lke to chant, but it's usually something like "¡Injusticia! ¡Injusticia!"

It was a really, really touching day, and one that I will never forget. It's been hard here sometimes, especially physically, but it has been worth every minute, and absolutely unforgettable.

I Invite You...

This past week I've been invited by teachers and students to see the areas around Santa María. One student in 7th grade invited me to La Higuera, a small "neighborhood" within the city limits. There I met her father who cultivates grapes and olives. He was welcoming, but exceptionally suspicious of my reasons for being there. "So you want to know about olives. Why?" I explained that I'm the kind of person who likes to know a little about everything. "But why do you want to know about olives?" I told him that I could tell my students in the U.S. about the agriculture in Chile, and my experiences living in an agricultural area. "But what do you want to know specifically about the olives?" Specifically I had no idea. This went on for a while until he finally consented to give me a brief overview. Later he showed me two of his inventions, one to separate olives by size, and the other a huge oven to make grapes. I asked him if I could take a picture of him and the inventions. "Why?" I explained that I was iinterested in the processes he was describing, and if I could explain them to my students a photo would be really helpful. "But what exactly are you going to do with the photos?" Show them to my students in the U.S., I answered. "Are you going to print them here?" I hadn't planned to..."Are you going to sell them to my competition so they can create similar inventions?" I assured him I knew no one in agriculture in Chile. He finally relented, but on the condition that I take pictures of machines used in agriculture in the U.S. so that he can create more machines, or that I bring my husband to Chile to invest in his business so that he can go international. I placated him somehow without making any real commitments.

On Thursday morning it snowed. It doesn't snow in the area normally, so it was a big event. More than half of the students didn't show up for school, so at noon the director sent the rest of them--and the staff--home. I went with 3 cars full of teachers to the hills to take pictures of the snow. We ended up at the Hotel Jahuel, a 5 star establishment set against the mountains. The snow was falling off the trees as we wandered around the buildings, and some of the frisky teachers bombarded each other with snowballs "a cada rato". I promised Edith I would take lots of pictures for her.

Saturday Edith threw a small party for me. Both Edith's daughters Sady and Alejandra were there, as was her boyfriend Luis, Luis' daughter, and Edith's brother and his family (those of the rabbit fame). We sat around all afternoon eating barbecued pork, beef and sausage with salads and bread. Afterwards we took a walk to "el castillo", a house built by Turkish immigrants in the 1800s, now in ruins. It's a beautiful house, and a shame it is so run down.

Tonight I'm invited to tea with an English teacher from a neighboring school. We met last week at a meeting for local English teachers, and she invited me to come and teach a couple of classes at her school last Friday. We played games using vocabulary talking about things they like to do.

It's been a good week, and it's been nice to go out with all sorts of different people who are so excited to show me their part of the world.
.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Cheese!

This week, along with finishing up teaching and preparing materials to leave for the teachers, I've been taking photos of all the students and classes. I've taught them the phrase "Cheese!", and now everywhere I go in the school, I hear the word. At least the students will know that and "Good morning" if nothing else.

I've been encountering a bit of machismo in my classes lately, and I'm really not down with machismo. Some of the male students come to class and do nothing but goof off and disregard my redirection. Last week the director had to come to one of my Freshman classes (damn Freshman!!!) because they were so disrespectful. The part that facinated me was when the director asked the offending students to stand up and identify themselves--and they did. Apparently this is a badge of honor--disrespect a female and be proud that you did it. One of my Sophomore classes showed me similar disrespect yesterday, so I've decided that I'll give them one warning, then I send them back to their regular teacher. It's a privilege for them to leave the classroom and come with me to play Bingo and sing songs, so I don't have to deal with students who don't feel like "comportándose". It worked--the students get written up, and I don't see them anymore.

The other classes are really good. I especially like the little ones, who run up and hug me wherever I am, and shout "Hello, Miss!" and "Good Morning!" and "How are you?" The older ones all want my Messenger address--I don't chat in English, I don't know how I'm going to do it in Spanish. I'm thinking about setting up an email-penpal program between the students here and my students in the U.S.

It's still cold, and the closer I get to leaving the less I want to tolerate it...But I will be warm soon.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

In Vina Again

Because of the events the last time we visited, Sara and I decided to head back to Viña last weekend. We wanted to see the last of Pablo Neruda's houses before we left the country and see more the city than we got to see last time. So we caught a bus in San Felipe late Saturday morning and made our way there.

We found a great little hotel on 5 Norte, a part of town with a bohemian vibe near the beach. It also had TONS of restaurants, and Sara and I got very excited and very hungry--it's been so long since we've had pizza (without ketchup), italian food, mexican food, chocolate...We tried to fit it all in, but we couldn't. We're thinking about going back next weekend just for the restaurants!

Saturday afternoon we walked along the boardwalk taking pictures of sand sculptures and looking at all the artesanía. This artesan fair is a permanent fixture along the beach and famous for its lapizlázuli. Sara got her hair braided at one of the booths. Then we walked to the mall, which was crazy with people. The next day was "El Día del Niño" (Children's Day), so everyone was out shopping for presents. Right in the middle of everything was a Barbie Beauty Day where young girls would wait in line to get a Barbie makeover (complete with blue eyeshadow and a boa) and have their picture taken.

The next day we went to see one of the Moai transported from Easter Island (the Moai statues were nominated as one of the seven wonders of the world, but in the voting they came in eighth). Then we caught a bus to Isla Negra to see Neruda's house. Well, we tried to catch a bus. But as always happens, something goes wrong, but it all ends up okay in the end. We boarded the wrong bus. In order to find the bus the bus you've bought a ticket for, you look for the destination and the departure time in the windshield; they don't give you a bus number or anything else to identify it. So we got on what we thought was the right bus, but it turns out it was going another direction and they dropped us of at the next stop. Now we had to do a more Chilean thing and flag down the bus from the side of the road that would take us where we wanted to go. Fortuneatly the bus attendant on the first bus told us what we were looking for, and we only had to wait 20 minutes before we were on our way again.

Isla Negra is the last of the 3 Neruda houses we wanted to see. It was beautiful, overlooking the ocean (of course), and full of the random stuff he collected (figurines that go on the front of ships, paintings, bugs, seashells, masks from around the world, etc.). This was the only house that was not sacked after Pinochet's coup in 1973, and Neruda's remains, along with those of his 3rd wife, are there. Neruda died a few days after the take-over, and many Chileans view that as symbolic of the dureza of the regime.

We traveled safely and without incident back to San Felipe and to our respective towns. The only thing we were sorry about was not being able to eat more food while we were in Viña.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Back in Santa Maria

I arrived back in Santa María to discover my parents and in-laws had both sent me packages...hooray for sweaters and long underwear!!! Especially since the cold in Santa María is such a different cold than the cold you feel nearer the ocean. It's more tolerable there. So thanks, family.

They also sent me a mountain of Reece's Peanutbutter Cups, and contrary to what I thought, everyone seems to like them (Diego, I was right--they ARE delicious!!! And Chileans like them! Ha!) I've been giving them away to my students as we play weather bingo in class. After they learn the vocabulary I'm going to teach them the song "Umbrella" by Rihanna. They should like that.

After I came home on Sunday my host mom and I went to San Felipe with my host mom's brother, his wife and son to wander through the plaza. San Felipe is celebrating the anniversary of its founding, and there are artesan booths galore, music blaring and people bustling all over. The city is celebrating more than 250 years of existence--it's even older than the U.S.

On our way home we had a hare controversy--a rabbit was trying to cross the road, and Edith's brother swerved to hit it as a joke, but he ended up killing it. Oof, there was drama! His wife was crying, upset that we had killed a living thing without needing to, the son was noticeably shaken, all the while the father is trying to defend himself that he hadn't tried to kill the hare, it was an accident. We stopped to inspect the damage, and the rabbit was picked up and placed bleeding in the trunk. I don't know what they ended up doing with it.

It's good to be back in Santa María, but my time here is about at its end. I'm sad to face leaving, I've had so many good experiences and met so many new friends. I will, however, be glad to get back to the heat of the last bit of summer.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Paseos in the Lake District

This week I've been touring around the Lake District in a southern region of Chile. On Tuesday we traveled along one of the lakes passing through the small towns of Llanquíhue, Frutillar and Puerto Octay. The towns are small and picturesque, set in the hills and trees surrounding the water. The countryside reminded me of Kentucky for the rolling hills, and northern Idaho for the roads, trees and rivers.

Yesterday Diego and I spent the morning in Puerto Montt. It's Chile's third oldest city, but a bit disorganized--it doesn't seem to follow much of a city plan. Buildings and roads seem to pop up at random. We walked around the artesan fairs, and took pictures of a great church on one side of the Plaza de Armas whose roof is made of copper and the walls of some kind of dark wood.

Today we drove to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park, by far my favorite part of my trip here. It reminded me a lot of Montana. The lake Todos los Santos is an amazing turquoise color, surrounded by mountains, waterfalls, forests, and the volcanoes that have been alluding me since I arrived here on Monday. The volcanoes are massive and amazing, but for the weather have been hiding behind rainclouds. They finally came out today, partially, behind partly-cloudy skies.

The area was colonized by Germans, so their influence is very stark. Names of towns, types of food, the structure of the houses, even names--Claudia, Diego's wife, has German ancestry. Apparently the Germans that remain are a bit racist towards those with indigenous blood, though that baffles me when there is such a mix that almost no one could be considered completely one race or nationality or another.

I am really liking the family I'm staying with. We have a lot in common, and I hope we will be friends for a long time to come. Diego likes to play Playstation and is a music and movie connoisseur. He is a heavy metal fanatic. He's also very good with computers (I've almost got him convinced that Mac should be his next purchase). Claudia is also great on the computer, and is into good alternative music. In the time when we're not touring I've been making CD's for them--I figure it's the least I can do for allowing me to stay with them. They were very excited to see everything I had on my laptop (thanks, Nash). They've invited Jason and I to come back during their summer (March) so we can really explore the countryside in good weather and hang out.

I was supposed to go back to Santiago today, but not surprisingly for Chile, all the busses were full and I'm not leaving until Saturday night. I'll arrive in Santiago Sunday morning, then take another bus to San Felipe, where I'll catch a "micro" to Santa María. All just in time to teach a full day on Monday.